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Learn to climb from an AMGA-certified Rock Guide who enjoys teaching and sharing in his passion for the craft.
I arrived in the guiding world from suburban Massachusetts, one of the last places you might think of for adventures in the mountains. But I somehow found a way from there to the big mountains and rock walls of east Asia.
Education and mentorship mattered the world to me for making a difference in my climbing and guiding. I want to share the library of experience I have gained over the years with those who are psyched to learn the craft, too.
photo: Irene Yee/Lady Lockoff Photography
New Documentary Release!
Watch my short film, Baiyansi: A Story of Big Wall Climbing in China
Well, a story I have wanted to tell for a long time is finally here! The story behind one of China's best, up-and-coming big wall destinations, Baiyansi （白岩寺）, was one I wanted to share for years.
What started as a small passion project morphed into a much bigger story of wild adventures, scary moments, and the creation of something new!
Dane and I set off into the unknown back in 2018 with a mission. We loved the adventurous style of multipitch and big wall climbing and had lived in China's Yunnan province for years. We had always been surprised by how little of those routes we could find around us, often needing to travel hundreds–or even thousands–of miles to find the terrain and routes we so eagerly wanted to climb. And we were not alone. Friends and fellow climbers would always ask where they could go to have a big day out. So one day, we decided: "What if we found a wall and created those routes ourselves?"
This is the story of how we pulled off that improbable project, one that has fortunately outlasted our time living in one of the most beautiful places on Earth. It was a labor of love that we and a tight-knit group of climbers and developers put forth to create something that the next generation could take and carry forward to new places. Ultimately, it is a story about community and the things we do for each other. This project was cathartic for me. I needed to recall my time living in Yunnan, a period in my life that was so formative to who I became as a climber, yet a era of life I feared was slowly fading into the fog of increasingly distant memory. This short film was an attempt to crystallize those memories for me and hopefully share in some of the adventurous times with all of you.
Help support new routing and climbing access at Baiyansi (and in China writ large) through buying my guidebook on my website! Both hard copies and e-copies are available. All of my projects, whether guidebooks, films, or new routes, have been independently powered, and they can only come into the world with community support! You can see completed projects and upcoming ones on my site, too.
New Route Alert!
Endless multipitch potential in the Wanxian Mountains of China’s Henan Province!
I got the chance to team up with one of Squamish’s prolific first ascentionists, Paul Mcsorley in Henan, China!
Though the temperatures crashed out to the 40s with rain during our brief stop in the area, we were able to put a new multipitch alongside some efforts by our local climbing friends. Now, there are more multipitches to climb in this part of the world!
This range is full of incredible topography. The Wanxian Mountains of central Henan province are a wildly layered series of mountains and tablelands that stretch for miles and miles along the border of Henan and Shanxi provinces. This area may as well look like something out of a fantasy novel because the topography feels like that of another plant! Purple sandstone quartzite towers above the valleys below, leading to near-completely flat highlands. behind those highlands, soaring peaks of limestone sit directly atop the quartzite below!
Coincidentally, this range was the site of my very first first ascent, back when I was a stoked-but-clearly-underinformed college student back in 2012. I had no idea, back then, of the true potential this area had. But 13 years later, with all the learning I have done in the subsequent years, I think it is safe to say that this park could be one of the best area to develop multipitch rock in China!
More write ups about the area coming soon!
Featured Trip
Check out the newest trip offering! For a more complete list of adventures, click the button below!
International:
Crack Climbing and Big Wall Multipitch in Yunnan, China
Hone your crack climbing and big wall, multipitch skills during an incredible cultural experience in southwest China.
Climb with an AMGA-Certified Rock Guide who speaks the language and put up routes there!